Nancy's Travel Journal

Today we had a bit of an unusual start to our ride.  After breakfast, we all rode 2.5 miles to the Mobile Bay Ferry, scheduled to depart at 8:00 AM.  Our spirits were upbeat as we all took pictures and joked around about the ride.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then it was time to go.  As it turned out, we had the ferry to ourselves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since the ride took about 30 minutes, we had time to check out our surroundings and take many more pictures.  Unfortunately, Elizabeth fell while walking down the steps and bruised her arm.  It must have been quite painful, but she was able to ride.  The Mobil-Exxon rig in the picture is drilling for natural gas.  According to what we read, it has a zero discharge policy, so operates in an environmentally friendly way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pasha and I enjoyed the wind in our hair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

As we departed the ferry, we saw Fort Morgan at the tip of the land.  It is interesting how Ft. Gaines on Dauphin Island and Fort Morgan protected US interests in the bay in the 1800s.  The construction of the forts reminded me of Fort Pulaski.  For more information on Fort Gaines see http://www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm .  Fort Morgan became known during the Civil War, when Admiral Farragut led a fleet close to Mobile Bay.  In the confusing of battle, the USS Tecumseh seemed to hesitate.  At that moment he shouted those famous words, “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!”  The fort operated until after World War II.At about mile 34 we entered Florida at Perdido Key. 

All along this route, we were both amazed and dismayed at the number of high-rise condos going up along the shore.  As in so many other places, soon there will be few beaches that the common folk can enjoy.  And, I would what would happen there if another Katrina hit the area.  It was rather challenging at times navigating around dump trucks, forklifts, construction barricades, etc.On the outskirts of Pensacola, our cue sheet indicated that we could turn right off our route to see the National Museum of Naval Aviation at the Pensacola Naval Air Station.  I had made up my mind early in the day that I would go there, since my dad, Howard Bland, had been stationed there during World War II teaching pilots to fly.  I was hoping to find some record of his having been there.  Alas, the database was under repair.  As I told the riders with me that I was going, one of them said she would go, too.  So, Barb and I entered the Pensacola Naval Air Station, and rode three miles to the museum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

The museum was awesome with so many planes from different eras of naval air history. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This bronze depiction shows aviators from four eras, reliving a flight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was in 1911 that the Navy ordered its first airplanes and its first naval aviator, Lt. Theodore Ellyson reported for flight training.  Quite ironically, a John Henry Towers, a graduate of the US Naval Academy, was taught to fly by Ellyson and qualified as Naval Aviator Number 3 in September 1911.  He was the first commander of the naval aviation station at Pensacola that eventually became the flight training school for Navy pilots.  Hmmm, wonder if Matt might have a family connection there on his dad’s side?  Maybe his love of flying comes from both sides of the family.  After walking through exhibits for a while, we decided to see The Magic of Flight at the Imax Theater, featuring the Blue Angels.  Another irony was that a Blue Angel pilot was killed in Beaufort just last weekend.  The Pensacola Naval Air Station is the home of the Blue Angels.  Signs and flowers on the right are in memory of Kevin Davis, the downed Blue Angel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After having visited the Udvar-Hazy Museum in Virginia, I have a greater appreciation for aviation history.  There was so much to see.  I hope to visit this place again and spend more time, hopefully with Bill, Polly and Matt.  Leaving the museum, we still had 20 miles to ride.  While there was a lot of traffic, thankfully, we rode in a bicycle lane.  The final 5 miles were on Scenic Highway US 90, that follows a bluff along the Gulf.  It would have been a beautiful ride had it not been for rush hour traffic, unexpected hills and a small shoulder for riding.  We finally pulled into the hotel about 5:00, exhausted.  But, it had been a rewarding day.  Even though the detour had caused us to get in late, I was glad we went.

Sunday, April 22, dawned cool and beautiful in Pascagoula. Since we only had a 42-mile ride to Dauphin Island, leaving time was delayed until about 8:30 AM.  Barb Larsen, who was my roommate for the night, and I decided to eat breakfast in the restaurant.  Sometimes it is a luxury just to sit at a table and have someone bring you pancakes and hot coffee, as opposed to standing in a parking lot, eating oatmeal.  The restaurant was not crowded so we began to talk with the waitress, a customer and the hostess.  As we told them that we had started the ride on March 9, the customer asked, “What year”.  
Donna and I started the ride together.  We had been told that the “Gator Ranch” was at mile 8.  I didn’t plan to stop, since alligators are so common in South Georgia.  Well, we never saw the attraction, but just down the road, we did spot a small one sunning himself in a pond.  At mile 10 we entered Alabama and began to feel a slight head wind (a forecast of things to come).  In the small town of Grand Bay, we left US 90 and turned directly into the wind, headed for Dauphin Island.  The SAG was a welcomed site at mile 20.  Even my puppy enjoyed a special treat, as everyone complained about the wind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

For another 15 miles we fought a steadily increasing headwind, with nothing but pine trees and old mobile homes as scenery.  Because of the wind, the SAG made an unplanned stop just before we turned onto the highway leading to the Dauphin Island Bridge.For a brief time the headwind became a crosswind.  So we were granted a short reprieve before hitting the three-mile bridge.  Then the wind became brutal, gusting over 20 miles per hour.  As the bridge arch crossing the gulf intercoastal waterway drew near, its grade looked almost impossible to climb.  However, once we got there, it was steep, but not as bad as it had looked earlier.  Reaching the top was difficult with wind gusts threatening to blow me over at any minute.  And, going down the other side was not any easier.  I never reached more than 10 mph on the way down, with the wind in my face.  Finally, the bridge came to an end, and with it, the strong wind.  Several of the women said it was a great ride.  Looking back on it, I feel it was one of the most difficult short rides I have ever done.  But, this trip has changed my perspective on tackling tough situations on my bike.  Had this experience been early in the ride, I might easily have jumped into the SAG.  But, now I feel so much stronger and willing to take on more challenges. We are staying at the Dauphin Island Beach Club, in a condo-type arrangement.  I was assigned my own room, which is a luxury.  This is a beautiful place with a pool and the ocean right over the dunes.  Katrina damage is hardly evident here.  Our condo is the one on the bottom right side.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

After a bath, nap and laundry time, John and Mary White called to let me know they had arrived.  It was wonderful to see them.  They were my guests for dinner with the group.  I guess John enjoyed being the only man with 27+ women!  After dinner, we visited for a while, and then parted ways with plans for a sightseeing trip the next day.  After they left, I walked out toward the beach for a while and saw the rigs that looked like small ships lined dotting the horizon.Monday morning the six of us sharing the condo had a delicious breakfast of eggs, English muffins, yogurt, coffee and orange juice, while enjoying the ocean breeze.  John and Mary picked me up for a day of sight seeing.  We went by their bed and breakfast on the inlet side, a quaint little place owned originally by the Dubarrys(early copy machine founder).  Driving to the east end of the island, we were surprised to see a rig rather near the shore. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we headed for Bellingrath Gardens, a place I first heard about from Ione Murphy years ago.  Bellingrath Gardens, covering 65 acres, was the dream of Walter and Bessie Bellingrath.  Walter was a native of Atlanta, who bought the franchise to sell the new bottled Coca Cola in southern Alabama in 1903. The Mobile Coca Cola Bottling Company became one of the most successful in the United States, and brought “Mr. Bell” great wealth.  In 1917, Mr. Bell consulted his doctor about a series of ailments.  The doctor diagnosed the ailments as being a direct result of his being a work-a-holic.  To combat his disease, the doctor suggested that he “learn how to play”.  So he bought some land with a fishing shack on the Fowl River.  In the meantime, Bessie developed a love for plants, creating a showplace of their home.  Later, lack of space inspired Bessie to expand her gardens to the land on the river.  The couple engaged one of Mobile’s leading architects to design the garden.  Upon completion, the couple invited the public to view the masterpiece.  The event was so successful; they continued the practice throughout their lives.  The couple finally decided to build a 1,000+ square foot home on the grounds in 1935.  After the deaths of the Bellingraths, the home and gardens were turned over to the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation.  For more information on Bellingrath Gardens see the website at http://www.bellingrath.org/home/ After spending time at the Gardens, we enjoyed sandwiches on the grounds before departing. I have included a sampling of the photos taken there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we headed up to the road for a bit of shopping.  One of the new energy drinks I have learned about is a combination of Ensure and Frappicino.  Think about the ingredients, lots of protein and caffeine!  So, I wanted to pick up some of each to get me through the final 9 days of cycling. We came back to the island to regroup before going to dinner. 

On the way in, we spotted the Dauphin Island Elementary School.  It has 75 students, K-5, with most of the staff wearing many hats.  I met the principal, Paula Loper, who is retiring this year.  She is full of energy and reminds me so much of Charlotte Coursey.  The school has one class each of kindergarten, first, second, third, and a 4-5 multiage classroom. Imagine teaching in a school like this, with the beach as your backyard yard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

As it tuned out, the only restaurants on the island were closed on Monday.  So John, Mary and I made our way back to Bayou Le Batre to the Lighthouse Restaurant in search of good seafood. We were not disappointed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I brought some of my grouper and potato salad back, intending to put it in the SAG cooler and enjoy it for lunch tomorrow.  I bid farewell to John and Mary before turning in for the night.  It was great to have them here and share the experience of Bellingrath Gardens.

This morning I awoke feeling so much better than the day before.  I had slept so well, even though we turned our light after 10:00.  I got on the road about 7:20 AM, heading out on a busy highway that had a very wide shoulder.  We rode only about 7 miles before turning on to a quieter, yet smooth road. It was a beautiful morning with a temperature of about 65, the fragrance of honeysuckle in the air, a few azaleas still blooming and birds singing all along the way.  I wished Sam Chapman were there to identify those sounds.

At about mile 15 we entered the Desoto National Forest.  The pine trees still showed evidence of Katrina as they were bent over like old men.  And, some had broken off about 10 feet up.  It seemed that the hardwoods were spared so much damage.
Our first SAG was at mile 20. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To remind non-cyclists, the SAG is there to support riders with food, water, pain relievers, and minor bike repairs. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our SAG usually meets us every 20 miles, or sooner if the ride is especially difficult.  On this ride, the SAG driver checks off each cyclist as she stops.  This is to make sure no one gets lost.  If someone does not show up in a reasonable time, the driver will go looking.  If a rider is ill, tired or has a serious bicycle problem, the SAG driver will take her to the hotel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After about mile 30, we turned onto a road with pine trees and ditches holding water, called wet pine savannas. This soil is highly acidic, with low nutrient content. Plants that grow in these areas make up for the lack of nutrients by killing and devouring insects.  Thus, they are called carnivorous plants.  I looked to my right and saw a group of pitcher plants.  Thinking I would stop the next time I saw some, I looked ahead and saw about 6-8 bicycles lying beside the road and women with cameras in the woods.  There were pitcher plants, sundews, small orchids, and other plants I have yet to identify.

 

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It is hard for me to understand how people can just ride by without looking at the beauty of God’s earth.  But, we are all on this ride for different reasons. 

As we made a turn onto Old Fort Bayou Road, there was a convenience store with more than just candy and chips.  Almost everyone stopped for lunch here.  But, they did have rules for entering the store! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just after I ordered, the electricity in the store went off.  But, the clerk was able to serve me the best roast beef sandwich I have had in a long time!  We spent some time talking with a couple of local citizens about all of the construction going on as a result of Katrina.  They told us that we were about 15 miles from the coast at that location.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

The sandwich, along with a V-8 and a Yoohoo gave me the energy I needed to push on to the next turn.  Our last SAG was at the entrance to the Mississippi Sandhill Crane Wildlife Refuge.  Unfortunately, it is closed until September 2007 for construction of a new visitors’ center.  Sandhill cranes are on the endangered species list, with only 100 individuals and 20 breeding pairs left, according to the US Fish and Wildlife Service. Shortly after the SAG, we crossed under I-10 and entered the town of Gautier.  From that point until the end of today’s ride there was a lot of traffic.  But, the road was 4-laned so it wasn’t so bad.  We turned on to US 90 at about mile 62.  Not long after that, we crossed the Singing River and the Pascagoula River.  The view from the bridge over the Pascagoula was breathtaking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our home for the night in Pascagoula is the La Font Inn.  It looks like it might have been built in the 1970s, but is very well kept, with
an Olympic sized swimming pool.  We all enjoyed an afternoon relaxing by that pool.  (Note the tan lines, a true sign of a cyclist)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For trivia experts, Pascagoula is the home of Trent Lott and the birthplace of Jimmy Buffet (two ends of the spectrum!)Tomorrow is a 42-mile easy day to Dauphin Island, AL, where we will spend two nights.  I am looking forward to seeing John and Mary White there.  It is hard to believe that the trip is almost over.  The feeling seems to be that the long days are over, except for one more 90-mile day.  We all seem to be in a mellow mood tonight.

Today dawned cool and beautiful.  For the first time in weeks, I didn’t have to wear my jacket at the start.  The first 18 miles were very difficult for me, up and down hills (yes there are hills in Louisiana).  For some unexplained reason, I had not slept well, even though I was exhausted.  I had a hard time turning off the riding and finding some relaxation.  This is happened several times during the trip.  Just can’t figure out what keeps me awake.  Anyway, it was a hard start with lots of traffic (but, wide shoulders). After struggling for those 18 miles, we passed through Bogalusa and crossed the Pearl River into Mississippi.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortly after crossing into Mississippi, we turned onto a quieter road, but not so smooth.   After only a few miles, the route had us turn every few miles, and every turn brought different road surfaces.  Some were almost worse than South Georgia dirt roads!  At one point we saw a ‘road closed” sign, recently moved from the center of the road.  As we rode a few miles, we found the reason for the sign.  The bridge had washed out and was repaired with dirt.  Since it looked a bit difficult for skinny tires, most folks got off and walked.  It was during this part of the ride that we saw some of the devastation from Katrina and some FEMA trailers still being used.
Our cue sheet gave us two options for the last 10-20 miles of today’s route, the long, scenic route and the shorter highway option.  A number of folks chose the scenic route because they wanted the longer ride or because they feared traffic on the highway.  I chose the highway option, along with about half of the group.  It turned out to be a good choice for us.  The traffic was not really bad and the road was smooth.  And, the log trucks in Georgia could learn a lesson from those here.  All of them went way around us, some even sounding their horns in greeting.  Of course, the longer option folks thought their choice was the best.  The last 4-5 miles had some big rolling hills, but knowing we were almost done helped me climb them without too much effort.
Tonight’s dinner was a bittersweet time for the group.  The good news was that we had chicken and dumplings and collard greens for dinner.  The group seemed to enjoy the dishes. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

On a more somber note, one of the guides who joined us after Ellee broke her arm, left tonight.  Patty did a great job and fit right into the group.  Now she is going on to lead another tour.  We had collected money as a gift for her.  Since I was the organizer of the gift giving, it was my job to present it to Patty.  She was a bit emotional as she thanked us and made a special request for us to be safe.  The last picture is of Michelle, our main cook and guide, Barb, the sous chef, Patty, and Ellee.Tomorrow is a 68- mile day.  I hope it will be a good one.